Hello all,

I haven't been up to a lot of modeling lately due to a few broken and badly bruised fingers. I've mostly recovered from the injury, at least enough to use tools and make progress on modeling and layout projects.

The first project was to construct my own static grass applicator, shown in the photo below...

I cannot take any credit for the design... There's instructions to build these devices all over the Internet, which helped me greatly in the construction of mine. I started with a 12VDC to 9.5Kv negative ion generator that was purchased on eBay along with a 110VAC to 12VDC converter. I could have gone for a battery powered unit, but I wanted to take full advantage of the higher output of the ion generator that I purchased.

I also wanted something a little fancier than PVC pipe and a butter tub. A trip to Radio Shack netted me a $2 D-cell flashlight, an SPST switch, male/female plugs, and a 12V indicator light. The canister is a 2.5" x 3" plastic jar purchased at a local art supply store. I had plenty of 20 and 18 gauge wire lying around, and I highly recommend using at least 20 gauge wire. The 18 gauge is too big and stiff.

The remainder of the parts were laser cut, which unfortunately puts what I've done out of reach of most people. However, you can build a unit without a laser, and many have successfully done so. I used the laser at work to cut a ring from 0.020" brass, that fits between the screen and the top of the canister once the lid is screwed on. This ring is wired to the output of the negative ion generator, and helps to evenly distribute the electrical charge over the aluminum screen that was used. There is a 2mm thick aluminum disk in the cap of the flashlight, this closes off the interior of the flashlight to the fibers, and it also acts as a charging plate. The remaining laser cut pieces are brass soldering tabs for soldering wires in place.

As I said, you don't need these laser cut parts to build a successful static grass applicator. Many have done so before me, without all the fancy parts, so don't let it stop you!

Most of the work involves drilling holes, and removing parts of the jar so that it can be mounted on the flashlight body. The bottom of the jar must be removed for this, and it is fussy work as you want it to be a good fit over the end of the flashlight. The cap for the jar has to be have a large disk removed from it for the screen. I did both jobs using my Dremel tool with a cutting bit for removal and a sanding drum for cleaning things up.

Holes were drilled in the flashlight body for the switch, indicator light, grounding wire and the power cord plug. Once that is done, the various components were installed or glued into their respective holes.

To fit the negative ion generator into the flashlight body, I had to remove a lip of material off the body of the generator module. It serves no purpose, but care had to be taken to avoid nicking or cutting the wires that stick out of what looks like an epoxy filler. I also removed the mounting lugs, both operations were done with a milling cutter in the Dremel, finished up with a sanding drum to clean things up.

Wiring is pretty easy, but fussy work. All I can say is take your time. On the ion generator, the output wire goes to the aluminum plate in the cap of the flashlight, and from there a wire transfers the energy to the brass ring under the screen. The red wire goes to one terminal on the SPST switch. The black wire is the ground, which goes to both the ground lead from the power plug and to the ground wire that is connected to a pin that goes in the scenery. I also wired the 12V indicator lamp in parallel to the ion generator.

If that description makes no sense, there's schematics/wiring diagrams all over the Internet. Follow these, take your time, and you will be rewarded with a working unit.

Luckily, this time around, I fired up the applicator once I was done building it and it worked the first time. It has more power than the static grass applicator (gun) from Noch that I purchased a few years ago. This was my primary reason for building my own. I've always felt the Noch gun was underpowered. After building and testing my own, I think that the Noch tool, wasn't so much underpowered as it isn't built to fully take advantage of the power it outputs.

By this I mean that it can be modified to be made better... I think that if you remove the nylon screen material, replace it with metal screen that has been connected to the charging wire on the bottom of the canister, it will be a much better tool. It's important to get the static electric charge as close to the fibers as possible, and you don't get any closer than the screen!

Just remember when using the device... When you are done, ground the screen to the grounding pin or wire, or you risk getting a heck of shock.

That's it for now... Until next time.

Jeff

Improvements...

Hello all...

I've been on fire the last week or so... I have several photos of the latest mechanism designs. This latest design was what I alluded to in the last few blogs. The two mechanisms featured in tonight's photos use functional outside frames. Like all of my mechanism work, they are equalized (compensated to my UK followers). Up to fairly recently, I've been building mechanisms with false outside frames, which while they can be built to run well, they are not ideal.

On inside framed mechanisms, with false outside frames, any play in the axle bearings or the equalization is magnified by a consideable amount once it gets out to the ends of the axles. Because of this, tolerances have to be pretty tight, and I've found that there's a lot of variation in running quality between mechanisms of the same design because of this. The equalizing beam method I used to use on my X-6-X mechanisms is a prime example of this. I've built somewhre around 8 of these mechanisms, and the first 5 or 6 ran well. The last few didn't, and I struggled with them until realizing the problem with the design. I'm now of the opinion that the best way to go for outside framed mechanisms is to have functional outside frames...

The first four shots show first test build of an 0-6-0 diesel mechanical. It doesn't have a gearbox yet, and the drivers need to be rebuilt with new insulators and spacers on the pivot axle. In the process, they will get smaller counterweights as well. The gearbox will be either 50:1, or 75:1, depending upon the gears installed in it. It'll be driven by a Mashima 1220 with a flywheel, and I expect performance to be very good.

In the photo above, you can see that this mechanism lacks an inner frame around the geared and middle axle. The sub-frame over the pivoting axle is to support the pivot rod. Being a test mechanism, there's several ommisions on it. The pivoting axle requires spacers between the backs of the wheels, and the pivoting bearing to keep the axle centered in the frame. You can see what the spacers are on the 2-6-2 mechanism below.
The photo above show the drivers and rods out of the frame, and was done to show the axle bearings between the wheels and the counterweights. The pivot bearing allows the front axle to pivot, but is not used to hold the axle in position relative to the other axles, the outer bearings ride in the frame and are used to restrict any horizontal twisting of the axle.The photo above shows the empty frame... The equalizing beam for the middle and rear axle can be seen on the opposite side of the frame. The two beams rest on top of the axle bearings and allow them to rock fore and aft.

The next five shots show the 2-6-2 mechanism. The gearbox comes out by removing the lower geared axle cover plate and unhooking it from the rod that spans between the frames. The frames still need detailing, and the gearbox needs gears. I still have to design, cut and assemble a motor mount for it as well. The motor will be a Mashima 916 open frame with a flywheel, driving a final gear ratio of 45:1. Early tests on a different mechanism, but with the same motor/gear ratio combination show that this should produce a very usable speed range. The Mashima 916 motor is a tough little motor, but it is notorious for giving very high rpms for a given voltage. On the 2-6-2 mechanism, the geared axle is the middle axle, unlike the diesel. If space permitted, I could have geared the rear axle, just like the diesel, but I needed to have more distance between the motor and the gear box than that would have allowed. I've been told that X-6-X mechanisms should be gear driven off the middle axle. To some degree, this makes sense, but I've honestly not noticed a difference on the mechanisms I've built in the past. I think that if the driver quartering is good, and the rest of the mechanism is smooth and well built, it doesn't make any difference what axle the gearbox is on.

For the shot above, I lifted the frame up a little so that the two axles would drop out of it to show the equalizing beam. There will be a small retainer plate under the rear axle to keep it in the frame, and the geared axle will stay in place once the gearbox is installed.

More later...

Jeff

Yet more photos...

Hello all,

Here's another batch of photos of my latest projects... The top five photos show a mechanism I built for SR&RL #21. This Forney was one of three Forneys built for the Eustis RR, which were the largest 0-4-4 Forneys built for the Maine two-foot RR's. Commercial parts used were cross heads from Car Works Portland Forney, tank track from the same, NWSL wheels and gears and a Mashima open frame 919 motor. The cylinders were built up from turnings and laser cut parts. The rest is laser cut or machined from brass or steel. I still need to add pick-ups to her so that she can run on the rails. In bench testing, she ran very nicely.

The two photos below show some more shots of the 2-6-2 mechanisms shown in my last blog entry. As I mentioned in the last blog, the mechanism for #18 has been scrapped. I have had a bit of a change of heart about using false/non-functional outside frames on outside framed engines. They can be made to work well, but ultimately, the best way to go is to use functional outside frames.


I hope to have some photos of the new #18 mechanism, with a functional outside frame, soon. Stay tuned...

Jeff

More on current projects...

Just a quickie update from work... Here's some more photos of current projects.

The first two photos below are of a pair of 2-6-2 mechanisms. Both are HOn30. The top photo shows a bottom view of a mechanism for SR&RL #19, a two foot gauge 2-6-2. It's a relatively new mechanism design, that was adapted from the equalized 0-8-0 mechanism. This design gives a much better axle alignment, maintaining the proper geometry, but still allowing the axles to float to adjust for track irregularities.

The photo below shows the mechanism from #19 (back), as well as one for #18 of the same two-foot RR. The mechanism for #18 uses an older design for equalization, which I've found to be less reliable at maintaining proper axle geometry. This mechanism has actually been scrapped since the photo was taken. Some of the parts have been used on the replacement for it, which is yet another design. (more photos on that in the future)

The next three photos are updates for the equalized 0-8-0 shown in my last blog entry. It has updated laser cut outside frame, to reflect the design of the actual locomotive that the conversion takes its influence from.

That's it for this blog... I hope to have more pictures soon.

Jeff

Latest goings on...

Hello all...

It's been a while since I've posted anything. Any new layout projects mentioned in my blog have been put on hold until further notice, some more or less permanently.

Having obligations to other things, including a few projects for other modelers have kept me from working on something for myself lately... Not so much because I've been working on those other projects, more so because I felt that if I wasn't working on them, I shouldn't be working on anything for me. Last week I decided I had enough of that, and decided to get on with a project I've been working on here and there for about a year or so. (I apologize in advance if any of you are waiting for me to finish your mechanism, but I got tired of doing nothing, and hoped this project would motivate me to finish ones for others).

A while back I purchased a WestSide Models HOn3 brass model of D&RGW #50. For anyone unfamiliar with this locomotive, it is a medium to large sized diesel mechanical switcher, built in 1937 by Davenport Locomotive Works. She still exists today in running condition, having been rebuilt a few years back.

The first order of business, was to completely unsolder the model. Most of the solder joints were OK, but there was a lot of excess solder everywhere inside the model. The motivating factor for disassembling/reassembling the model was to ensure that it would sit flat, which it didn't in its original condition. Some of the details were a little crude or not what I wanted, so that also helped with the decision to rebuild.

The photos below show an in process of the rebuild... I am converting it from an HOn3 (10.5mm gauge) 0-4-0, to an HOn30 (9mm gauge) 0-8-0. While not entirely prototypical, Davenport did build four 2' gauge and at least one 30" gauge 0-8-0 diesel mechanicals in the late 1940's. They were about the same size/weight as #50 and used the same diesel engine (Caterpillar's venerable D17000 V-8). The major difference was the sheet metal, which was more modern than #50, encompasing all of Davenports' efforts at the time towards more modern looking locomotives.

The new HOn30 mechanism is made up of laser cut steel and brass parts and has four equalized axles. There's no rigid axle, though the equalizing beams are themselves rigid or not sprung. This enables the mechanism to follow the rail contour, keeping all eight wheels solidly planted on the rails at all times. The gearbox is custom, with a 75:1 gear ratio, so the locomotive will have very good slow speed performance. The gearbox is powered by my favorite motor, the Mashima 122o with a 12mm x 7mm flywheel. The wheels are solid nickel silver 33" 72 profile from NWSL (as are the gears in the gearbox), which is the size that the prototypes used. Overall wheelbase is 9' scale feet, or 31.5mm.

At this point, the mechanism needs couplers and pick-ups... The body requires further detailing and then paint. The frame and endbeams are not permanent. I've made changes to their appearance, but haven't had the chance to laser cut new parts.

Here's the photos...

Small Oops...

I made a small but easily correctable Oops on the mini-layout design. The turnout I intended to use was not a right hand turnout, but a left hand instead. Luckily, I was able to fix it with about 20 minutes worth of CAD work. The new track plan is actually better for it. The reverse curve, now on the front siding, is much more gradual than it was. Here's the new track plan...

The only other work I've done, was to start prepping the turnout for installation once the bench work is done. This entails adding more PC ties to support the frog once I cut the isolating gaps in the rails leading into and out of it. I also added some reinforcing connectors, using scrap rail, to tie the frog together.

For some reason, When Fast Tracks designed the fixture for the HOn30, Code 55 #6 turnouts, they didn't spend a lot of time on tie placement. Because of this, the tip of the frog is unsupported, which is both unprototypical, and structurally unsound. Truth be told, it's probably not a problem in model form, but I wanted a little insurance anyway.

So, the one turnout is almost done... I just have to solder on the head block ties, point hinges and throw bar, and the frog powering wire, and it'll be ready for installation. Here's a few pictures of said turnout:

If you are familiar with Fast Tracks fixtures, you'll note that the frog wing rails on my turnout are bent, not filed to a bevel. I modified my fixture by milling pockets into it to allow me (or my custom turnout builder) to use bent wing rails to match the guard rails. This isn't a necessary modification, but it is more prototypical for narrow gauge turnouts, and it sets my turnouts apart from any others using the Fast Tracks assembly fixtures.

The bottom pictures show the small pieces of scrap Code 55 rail soldered to the underside of the frog. The rail gaps will be cut with a jewelers saw (about 0.012" wide) to the left of the left hand most scrap piece of rail, and to the right of the right hand most scrap piece of rail. This guarantees that the frog rails won't budge when cut loose.

Well, other than an update once I get the remaining parts and work done/on to the turnout, this will probably be one of the last posts on the mini-layout until I get some other modeling projects done.

Jeff

Turntable for the new mini-layout...

Here's the turntable for the mini-layout. It is 7" long over the end of the rails, and stands about 0.25" high from the bottom of the pit rail, to the top of the rails on the bridge. It is made from laser cut steel, steel dowel pins, and brass turnings for the main pivot bearing and the index pin knob. The blue wires are track feeders. These were left extra long so that I could set up the pick-ups for the rails once the turntable is mounted on the layout. The pick-ups will run on two arc segments that will be epoxied to the base that the assembly is mounted to. This will allow the pick-ups to change polarity as the table is turned around.The track is N scale Atlas Code 55 flextrack, that has been epoxied to the bridge.


Here's a shot of the track alignment tool installed between the track... Dowel pins are used in the holes at each end, and the pivot bearing, to align the laser cut alignment bar to the pivot centerline.


Here's a shot of the indexing pin removed... It engages one of five indexing holes in the pit ring. The bridge has index holes mirror imaged about the center pivot, so that when I turn the table completely around, I use the same indexing holes in the pit ring. The other pin you see sticking up (which also has a mirror image) makes a handy handle to turn the table.


Here's a shot of the underside of the bridge, showing the pivot pin and bolster, and the two sliders that keep the table level.


This last shot shows my "standard" equalized 0-6-0 diesel mechanical mechanism, coupled to a 30' long boxcar. All the clearances and track lengths on the mini-layout were designed around the length of these two things, coupled together.

Other than installation and pick-ups, the turntable is done... It is going to be hidden from view, so it doesn't need to be detailed. I wanted to complete this first, as it was what makes the entire project interesting, at least for a layout with only one turnout/point! This was the main reason for building it with so much precision (the indexing) and so robust (steel). I want the layout to operate near flawlessly, and with very little lag between the time the locomotive and car disappear from view, then reappear.

Jeff