Adventures in HOn2, HOn30, and OO9 modeling

Improvements...

2011-08-24T22:50:00.009-04:00

Hello all...

I've been on fire the last week or so... I have several photos of the latest mechanism designs. This latest design was what I alluded to in the last few blogs. The two mechanisms featured in tonight's photos use functional outside frames. Like all of my mechanism work, they are equalized (compensated to my UK followers). Up to fairly recently, I've been building mechanisms with false outside frames, which while they can be built to run well, they are not ideal.

On inside framed mechanisms, with false outside frames, any play in the axle bearings or the equalization is magnified by a consideable amount once it gets out to the ends of the axles. Because of this, tolerances have to be pretty tight, and I've found that there's a lot of variation in running quality between mechanisms of the same design because of this. The equalizing beam method I used to use on my X-6-X mechanisms is a prime example of this. I've built somewhre around 8 of these mechanisms, and the first 5 or 6 ran well. The last few didn't, and I struggled with them until realizing the problem with the design. I'm now of the opinion that the best way to go for outside framed mechanisms is to have functional outside frames...

The first four shots show first test build of an 0-6-0 diesel mechanical. It doesn't have a gearbox yet, and the drivers need to be rebuilt with new insulators and spacers on the pivot axle. In the process, they will get smaller counterweights as well. The gearbox will be either 50:1, or 75:1, depending upon the gears installed in it. It'll be driven by a Mashima 1220 with a flywheel, and I expect performance to be very good.

In the photo above, you can see that this mechanism lacks an inner frame around the geared and middle axle. The sub-frame over the pivoting axle is to support the pivot rod. Being a test mechanism, there's several ommisions on it. The pivoting axle requires spacers between the backs of the wheels, and the pivoting bearing to keep the axle centered in the frame. You can see what the spacers are on the 2-6-2 mechanism below.
The photo above show the drivers and rods out of the frame, and was done to show the axle bearings between the wheels and the counterweights. The pivot bearing allows the front axle to pivot, but is not used to hold the axle in position relative to the other axles, the outer bearings ride in the frame and are used to restrict any horizontal twisting of the axle.The photo above shows the empty frame... The equalizing beam for the middle and rear axle can be seen on the opposite side of the frame. The two beams rest on top of the axle bearings and allow them to rock fore and aft.

The next five shots show the 2-6-2 mechanism. The gearbox comes out by removing the lower geared axle cover plate and unhooking it from the rod that spans between the frames. The frames still need detailing, and the gearbox needs gears. I still have to design, cut and assemble a motor mount for it as well. The motor will be a Mashima 916 open frame with a flywheel, driving a final gear ratio of 45:1. Early tests on a different mechanism, but with the same motor/gear ratio combination show that this should produce a very usable speed range. The Mashima 916 motor is a tough little motor, but it is notorious for giving very high rpms for a given voltage. On the 2-6-2 mechanism, the geared axle is the middle axle, unlike the diesel. If space permitted, I could have geared the rear axle, just like the diesel, but I needed to have more distance between the motor and the gear box than that would have allowed. I've been told that X-6-X mechanisms should be gear driven off the middle axle. To some degree, this makes sense, but I've honestly not noticed a difference on the mechanisms I've built in the past. I think that if the driver quartering is good, and the rest of the mechanism is smooth and well built, it doesn't make any difference what axle the gearbox is on.

For the shot above, I lifted the frame up a little so that the two axles would drop out of it to show the equalizing beam. There will be a small retainer plate under the rear axle to keep it in the frame, and the geared axle will stay in place once the gearbox is installed.

More later...

Jeff

Yet more photos...

2011-08-21T14:20:00.004-04:00

Hello all,

Here's another batch of photos of my latest projects... The top five photos show a mechanism I built for SR&RL #21. This Forney was one of three Forneys built for the Eustis RR, which were the largest 0-4-4 Forneys built for the Maine two-foot RR's. Commercial parts used were cross heads from Car Works Portland Forney, tank track from the same, NWSL wheels and gears and a Mashima open frame 919 motor. The cylinders were built up from turnings and laser cut parts. The rest is laser cut or machined from brass or steel. I still need to add pick-ups to her so that she can run on the rails. In bench testing, she ran very nicely.

The two photos below show some more shots of the 2-6-2 mechanisms shown in my last blog entry. As I mentioned in the last blog, the mechanism for #18 has been scrapped. I have had a bit of a change of heart about using false/non-functional outside frames on outside framed engines. They can be made to work well, but ultimately, the best way to go is to use functional outside frames.

I hope to have some photos of the new #18 mechanism, with a functional outside frame, soon. Stay tuned...

Jeff

More on current projects...

2011-08-19T11:27:00.008-04:00

Just a quickie update from work... Here's some more photos of current projects.

The first two photos below are of a pair of 2-6-2 mechanisms. Both are HOn30. The top photo shows a bottom view of a mechanism for SR&RL #19, a two foot gauge 2-6-2. It's a relatively new mechanism design, that was adapted from the equalized 0-8-0 mechanism. This design gives a much better axle alignment, maintaining the proper geometry, but still allowing the axles to float to adjust for track irregularities.

The photo below shows the mechanism from #19 (back), as well as one for #18 of the same two-foot RR. The mechanism for #18 uses an older design for equalization, which I've found to be less reliable at maintaining proper axle geometry. This mechanism has actually been scrapped since the photo was taken. Some of the parts have been used on the replacement for it, which is yet another design. (more photos on that in the future)

The next three photos are updates for the equalized 0-8-0 shown in my last blog entry. It has updated laser cut outside frame, to reflect the design of the actual locomotive that the conversion takes its influence from.

That's it for this blog... I hope to have more pictures soon.

Jeff

Latest goings on...

2011-06-23T09:20:00.004-04:00

Hello all...

It's been a while since I've posted anything. Any new layout projects mentioned in my blog have been put on hold until further notice, some more or less permanently.

Having obligations to other things, including a few projects for other modelers have kept me from working on something for myself lately... Not so much because I've been working on those other projects, more so because I felt that if I wasn't working on them, I shouldn't be working on anything for me. Last week I decided I had enough of that, and decided to get on with a project I've been working on here and there for about a year or so. (I apologize in advance if any of you are waiting for me to finish your mechanism, but I got tired of doing nothing, and hoped this project would motivate me to finish ones for others).

A while back I purchased a WestSide Models HOn3 brass model of D&RGW #50. For anyone unfamiliar with this locomotive, it is a medium to large sized diesel mechanical switcher, built in 1937 by Davenport Locomotive Works. She still exists today in running condition, having been rebuilt a few years back.

The first order of business, was to completely unsolder the model. Most of the solder joints were OK, but there was a lot of excess solder everywhere inside the model. The motivating factor for disassembling/reassembling the model was to ensure that it would sit flat, which it didn't in its original condition. Some of the details were a little crude or not what I wanted, so that also helped with the decision to rebuild.

The photos below show an in process of the rebuild... I am converting it from an HOn3 (10.5mm gauge) 0-4-0, to an HOn30 (9mm gauge) 0-8-0. While not entirely prototypical, Davenport did build four 2' gauge and at least one 30" gauge 0-8-0 diesel mechanicals in the late 1940's. They were about the same size/weight as #50 and used the same diesel engine (Caterpillar's venerable D17000 V-8). The major difference was the sheet metal, which was more modern than #50, encompasing all of Davenports' efforts at the time towards more modern looking locomotives.

The new HOn30 mechanism is made up of laser cut steel and brass parts and has four equalized axles. There's no rigid axle, though the equalizing beams are themselves rigid or not sprung. This enables the mechanism to follow the rail contour, keeping all eight wheels solidly planted on the rails at all times. The gearbox is custom, with a 75:1 gear ratio, so the locomotive will have very good slow speed performance. The gearbox is powered by my favorite motor, the Mashima 122o with a 12mm x 7mm flywheel. The wheels are solid nickel silver 33" 72 profile from NWSL (as are the gears in the gearbox), which is the size that the prototypes used. Overall wheelbase is 9' scale feet, or 31.5mm.

At this point, the mechanism needs couplers and pick-ups... The body requires further detailing and then paint. The frame and endbeams are not permanent. I've made changes to their appearance, but haven't had the chance to laser cut new parts.

Here's the photos...

Small Oops...

2011-03-27T20:31:00.007-04:00

I made a small but easily correctable Oops on the mini-layout design. The turnout I intended to use was not a right hand turnout, but a left hand instead. Luckily, I was able to fix it with about 20 minutes worth of CAD work. The new track plan is actually better for it. The reverse curve, now on the front siding, is much more gradual than it was. Here's the new track plan...

The only other work I've done, was to start prepping the turnout for installation once the bench work is done. This entails adding more PC ties to support the frog once I cut the isolating gaps in the rails leading into and out of it. I also added some reinforcing connectors, using scrap rail, to tie the frog together.

For some reason, When Fast Tracks designed the fixture for the HOn30, Code 55 #6 turnouts, they didn't spend a lot of time on tie placement. Because of this, the tip of the frog is unsupported, which is both unprototypical, and structurally unsound. Truth be told, it's probably not a problem in model form, but I wanted a little insurance anyway.

So, the one turnout is almost done... I just have to solder on the head block ties, point hinges and throw bar, and the frog powering wire, and it'll be ready for installation. Here's a few pictures of said turnout:

If you are familiar with Fast Tracks fixtures, you'll note that the frog wing rails on my turnout are bent, not filed to a bevel. I modified my fixture by milling pockets into it to allow me (or my custom turnout builder) to use bent wing rails to match the guard rails. This isn't a necessary modification, but it is more prototypical for narrow gauge turnouts, and it sets my turnouts apart from any others using the Fast Tracks assembly fixtures.

The bottom pictures show the small pieces of scrap Code 55 rail soldered to the underside of the frog. The rail gaps will be cut with a jewelers saw (about 0.012" wide) to the left of the left hand most scrap piece of rail, and to the right of the right hand most scrap piece of rail. This guarantees that the frog rails won't budge when cut loose.

Well, other than an update once I get the remaining parts and work done/on to the turnout, this will probably be one of the last posts on the mini-layout until I get some other modeling projects done.

Jeff

Turntable for the new mini-layout...

2011-03-24T22:15:00.011-04:00

Here's the turntable for the mini-layout. It is 7" long over the end of the rails, and stands about 0.25" high from the bottom of the pit rail, to the top of the rails on the bridge. It is made from laser cut steel, steel dowel pins, and brass turnings for the main pivot bearing and the index pin knob. The blue wires are track feeders. These were left extra long so that I could set up the pick-ups for the rails once the turntable is mounted on the layout. The pick-ups will run on two arc segments that will be epoxied to the base that the assembly is mounted to. This will allow the pick-ups to change polarity as the table is turned around.The track is N scale Atlas Code 55 flextrack, that has been epoxied to the bridge.

Here's a shot of the track alignment tool installed between the track... Dowel pins are used in the holes at each end, and the pivot bearing, to align the laser cut alignment bar to the pivot centerline.

Here's a shot of the indexing pin removed... It engages one of five indexing holes in the pit ring. The bridge has index holes mirror imaged about the center pivot, so that when I turn the table completely around, I use the same indexing holes in the pit ring. The other pin you see sticking up (which also has a mirror image) makes a handy handle to turn the table.

Here's a shot of the underside of the bridge, showing the pivot pin and bolster, and the two sliders that keep the table level.

This last shot shows my "standard" equalized 0-6-0 diesel mechanical mechanism, coupled to a 30' long boxcar. All the clearances and track lengths on the mini-layout were designed around the length of these two things, coupled together.

Other than installation and pick-ups, the turntable is done... It is going to be hidden from view, so it doesn't need to be detailed. I wanted to complete this first, as it was what makes the entire project interesting, at least for a layout with only one turnout/point! This was the main reason for building it with so much precision (the indexing) and so robust (steel). I want the layout to operate near flawlessly, and with very little lag between the time the locomotive and car disappear from view, then reappear.

Jeff

Progress...

2011-03-23T10:42:00.003-04:00

While I can't do much at home on the new mini (not micro) layout, I've been able to make progress on it at work... "How can you do this?" Well, I work as an R&D tech for a industrial laser manufacturer. On lunch breaks and after work, I have time to laser cut parts on the machines that are in our R&D lab. I'm able to design and produce a lot of interesting bits that make modeling quicker and more enjoyable (not to mention the mechanisms I can build from the laser cut parts).

Anyway... Because the layout is on the smallish side, I am able to laser cut a template for laying out the track centerlines, and the position of the turntable. This will greatly speed construction along. This was done yesterday on my lunch break (no pictures yet, they are coming).

I was also able to laser cut most of the parts for the turntable itself... Because it isn't that big, I laser cut the parts from 2mm thick steel, which is important, because it is solderable. This will allow me to solder the turned brass parts onto it for final assembly. I hope to ream the 20 or so holes tonight, and start turning the rest of the parts as well.

I will post some photos of the track template and the turntable once I make some progress on it...

A quick edit: Just heard from my custom turnout builder... My turnout order is on the way, so layout building of any kind can commence any time after I receive them.

Jeff

The side step...

2011-03-18T15:29:00.006-04:00

Not even out of the gate on the new layout and I've decided to side step away from the project, temporarily at least!

What I'm replacing the new layout with in the short term, is a "practice" layout, a micro layout to be exact. Here's a jpeg of the design at this point...

The micro layout is 9" x 36", with one #6 frog turnout, and a 7" long turntable (the contraption on the left hand side). My initial design was just for a 9" x 24" micro, with the one turnout. But that didn't leave much for operational capability. I then added a sector plate, which helped, but the layout was still operationally limited. I then decided that a turntable was the best option. It will allow me to operate like there is a passing loop...

The 7" long table will hold one 30' car, plus my standard 0-6-0 diesel, which is also the limit for the stub to the right of the turnout (the head shunt in British terms). The turntable will be hidden from view by a box and a structure just to the right of it. The lead in to the table for both sidings will also be hidden by a building overpass.

I thought about having the front siding pass into a building, but that doesn't make sense for a train exiting with the locomotive in the rear (off the table). By leaving both sidings outside a structure, the viewer can surmise that there's a passing loop in place, that's completed "off scene". Inside the structures to the right of the turntable, there's three hidden storage tracks. Each will hold one 30' car, two shorter cars, or another locomotive and a shorter car.

The hidden sidings will make it possible to have a rotating mix of stock, without having to constantly remove and replace stock. I envision three cars, and two locomotives rotating through the scene. DCC will make it easy to have both locomotives in view at the same time.

The turntable itself will be constructed from laser cut steel and aluminum parts, as well as some turned brass components and a length of N scale flex track. I had initially thought to mill/machine the parts from 1/4" thick plexiglass, but laser cutting is a lot quicker, and nearly as precise. The laser cut base/pit, will have five indexing points for the five track leads, so alignment will be very precise, allowing for seamless running onto and off of the table.

I look forward to starting this project in the next week or so... Because it is so small, I have all the wood and other associated parts already on hand for construction. I plan to use a turnout that I had previously built in my Fast Tracks fixture, and it'll be thrown with a hand built throw mechanism. I will use Atlas Code 55 N scale flextrack throughout, as it is my initial intention to bury all the track (except for what is going over the girder bridge on the right hand side) under paving stones, pavement or concrete.

As small as this layout is, I think it'll be fun to operate, at least for short periods of time...

That's all for now... J

New layout...

2011-03-14T19:56:00.017-04:00

Hello to those you who may still be following along!

I had decided some time back to give up on the blog. I'm about to embark on building a new layout, and have decided to chronicle it here instead of on the few web forums I'm on, at least for the time being.

For any of you with me that have followed my layout idea topics on the NGRM forum, this new layout is different from anything I've presented in my various track plan topics. The last track plan I presented, while evocative (and lifted from the layout of another), would have been a shitload of work, and I wanted a lot simpler. I also wanted something that made sense, and that I could fit on a single 18" x 72" module.

The new plan is for an HOn30 layout, and uses 6 turnouts/points on a single 18" x 72" module. There's a run around track, and four stub sidings that will be places to site rolling stock. It'll have a freelance, seacoast/fishing/industrial theme, using mostly first generation diesel mechanicals (mid-1930's), and reclaimed Maine two-foot RR equipment (post abandonment of the original roads). It's a compact track plan, but one that offers a lot of switching/shunting possibilities. Instead of spending a lot more time describing it, here's a JPEG.

The turnouts are in blue, track center lines in red. The black lines are the outside frame, and the waterfront/retaining wall outline. The turnouts are all #6 frog, Code 55 rail, built in a Fast Tracks HOn30 turnout fixture. Track will be a mixture of handlaid Code 55 rail on PC and wood ties, and Atlas N scale Code 55 flextrack (where the track is buried in pavement or paving stones).

The design as shown, will allow me to switch two 30' long freight cars, with my standard design 0-6-0 diesel mechanical, over either end of the passing siding. More cars can be added to one of the stub ended sidings, by additional switching moves. However, building up trains becomes a problem on this basic layout, which means some sort of expansion is necessary.

Below is a drawing of the second iteration of the layout, which shows the first stage of the layout expansion... On the right is a 27" long transfer table, that has five separate storage tracks for building and storing trains. To the left, is a 14" long single track extension, that is cantilevered out off the end of the layout. This will allow longer trains to be built up off scene, run onto and switched over the main layout. This adds plenty of operational capability and interest, but falls a little short on adding to the length of run.

To remedy the lack of run length, an additional expansion is required. The drawing below shows the layout with a corner expansion module, and the transfer table moved around to the end of the corner extension. There is one additional turnout on the corner module, which splits the mainline into two tracks, both of which will allow alignment to the transfer table. The siding can and probably will be used for "customers", and will see limited run through to the transfer table. Though it could represent other "offline" customers, or even a spur off to another offline branch.

I really like the layout with the corner module, and can even build a second module, to turn the mainline a full 180 degrees. Like my last layout design, I really favor "around the corner" layout designs, and this expansion fills the desire to have that element on my layout.

That's the plan for the time being... I hope to purchase lumber for the project in the next month or two, after I finish a few projects (home and modeling). The turnouts are being built by a custom builder as I write this (he started on my order today). The plan is to buy enough lumber to complete the layout, including all expansion modules. I want to build the transfer table section and the main layout first, so that I can precisely align the track between the two.

Unlike my last layout, I will build the leg assemblies for the main layout as fold-up, integral parts of module frame. I want to be able to unload the layout from the car, straight to the exhibition hall, pull down the legs, plug in and start running trains.

The layout will be wired for DCC, which is no different from block-less DC, except that I will be using much heavier wire to ensure reliable signal transfer over the entire layout. Turnout control will be via "Blue-Point" manual turnout controls, which feature an integral DPDT switch for powering the turnout frog.

Well... That's it for now. Stay tuned to this blog for future updates.

Jeff